Big news coming out of SIHH 2013 from that force majeur that is Cartier: they're introducing their first in-house chronograph movement, the 1904-CH MC, in the Calibre de Cartier Chronograph. The self-winding vertical-clutch column wheel motor is based on the brand's Calibre de Cartier movement. We got our hands on it today and it is impressive in several respects.
Vertical-clutch column wheel chronos are renowned for their smooth and instant actuation and the Calibre is no exception. Start, stop, and reset require just the right amount of pressure and offer a satisfying "click?that made the chronograph a pleasure to use. Cartier has made use of a linear "return to zero? hammer in the movement to ensure instant resetting of all hands, regardless of the pressure applied to the reset pusher. For self-winding, the rotor rides on ceramic ball bearings and utilizes a click system in place of traditional reversers, ensuring more efficient winding in both directions. Power reserve is a fairly common 48 hours.
Calibre de Cartier Chronograph on the wrist.
Visually, the fake watch carries forward the bold, sporty Calibre de Cartier styling cues, with complementing brushed and polished surfaces, sword hands, and the familiar oversized Roman numeral dial. But the twin sub-dials and engraved railroad track bezel are nicely balanced and restrained, and the pushers are integrated into the crown protectors. The Chronograph will be built in steel and rose gold, with the steel available on a three-link bracelet or leather strap.
With a $10,800 retail price in steel and leather, this watch enters a growing field of in-house chronographs, from the Replica Rolex Daytona to Breitling's B01-based and IWC's 89365-based chronos. Given Cartier's popularity and burgeoning reputation for fine watchmaking, its competitors will certainly be paying close attention to this one. And you can be we will too.
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